Marks & Spencer has this week released blazers and waistcoats made from wool grown from the 14 farms certified as Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) growers and who supply Wools of NZ.
The clothing uses 28-31 micron wool that has traditionally gone into interior textiles.
The fabric is made by Abraham Moon and Sons in Yorkshire and the clothes are made in Vietnam.
“It’s a big step for crossbred wool and it’s tremendously exciting to see our wool moving into high-end attire,” Wools of NZ chief executive Rosstan Mazey said.
“It also validates our ongoing investment in the technologies and assurance programmes that allowed this to happen.”
Each blazer uses 700 grams to 800g of wool. The contract absorb most of each grower’s annual lambs’ wool clip.
Differentiation provided by the RWS programme is crucial.
The voluntary programme was launched in 2016 to recognise farmers who follow best practice in land management and animal welfare and wool companies that operate a fully transparent supply chain.
It was developed after an approach to the Textile Exchange two years earlier by a global retailer looking to establish standards for its wool suppliers.
A non-profit body, the Textile Exchange works with members to identify and share best practice for fibre from farming, materials, processing, traceability and product end-of-life to reduce the textile industry’s impact on the environment.
Mazey said in line with the RWS philosophy, instead of earning a premium, the prices growers are paid for the M&S contract fairly compensate for the greater effort they go through to produce wool that meets the accreditation standard.
The actual amount paid is commercially sensitive.
RWS is helping wool get market traction and while some small steps have been made with the M&S contract, Mazey hopes it will lead to the launch of NZ lamb’s wool women’s clothing.
He is also keen to see if the RWS link will affect demand for wool-made apparel, interior textiles and flooring.
An indication of the depth of demand should become clear in the next month after the Textile Exchange conference in Milan, Italy, at which the clothing range will be launched and the RWS programme promoted.
Mazey said the market for wool remains a challenge.
“Challenge is an understatement but we are really trying to create points of difference with RWS, taking our brand to market and, in particular, to sectors where it has not been before.”
Growers, including Palliser Ridge in Wairarapa, were chosen to supply the M&S contract because they already operate farm assurance programmes, which can easily be amended to meet the RWS requirements.
Mazey said the key to turning around the fortunes of strong wool is to first grow demand then link that back to supply.
M&S raw materials specialist Phil Townsend said transparency in sourcing wool reflected the company’s commitment to what he calls progressive standards of animal welfare and grassland management, which RWS provides and is important to its customers.
“We are very excited to be one of the first retailers to launch a range of RWS certified wool menswear pieces and are delighted to have played a significant role in its development along with the Textile Exchange and many other committed partners.”
Wools of NZ UK brand and business development manager Steven Parsons said M&S is a powerful partner that can influence the value chain and change attitudes towards fibre production.
“There is a new reality out there for both producers and retailers and that is they need to be responsible for driving supply chains towards true sustainability.”
M&S operates 1380 stores in the UK, Republic of Ireland, Europe and in Asia and in the last finance year had turnover of $22 billion.
