Wednesday, April 24, 2024

New hope for wool

Neal Wallace
A new yarn made from strong crossbred wool and plant material is being developed by global giant DuPont Biomaterials for use in clothes, upholstery and carpets.
Reading Time: 3 minutes

It is in the final stages and DuPont plans to use it at scale aiming at the mid to upper price bracket, global marketing director Renee Henze said on a visit to New Zealand supplier farms.

“The scale of opportunity for the NZ wool industry is massive,” Wools of NZ chairman Mark Shadbolt said though neither party is yet talking dollars or wool volumes.

“We are very excited with the potential and we see a pathway but there is still a journey to get there,” Henze said.

Shadbolt said the relationship is moving fast and while confident it will be completed he is still cautious.

“I am confident in the relationship and scale of DuPont as developers and the work of farmers that we can move the needle.”

Henze was in NZ last week to meet wool supply partner Wools of  NZ and farmers.

Adding wool to the still to be branded natural polymer yarn is a perfect fit.

“Our fibre and wool really complement one another.”

The product would have the “gift” of high quality wool grown sustainably by farmers working picturesque land.

“We think even more that this will be a really great product.

”To us it is really important to have a combination of being environmentally sustainable and something that is high performing.”

The yarn could be used for both active outdoor clothing and high-end suits, although the primary use is carpet at the moment.

DuPont began as a wool company more than 200 years ago and Henze said when it was looking for a product it could develop it rediscovered wool but, more importantly, found ample opportunity.

“We look for wide open spaces and I think we have found one.”

DuPont had the choice of dozens of opportunities to advance but chose only three or four a year, of which the wool-based product was one.

Henze said access to the Wools of NZ Glacial XT process which enhances the whiteness of wool was a factor in DuPont’s interest because it creates a fresh design palette.

Shadbolt was reluctant to talk quantity or price but said the programme would take wool from 28 microns and stronger and of variable length.

Low wool prices are most stark for strongest crossbred wool so it is important to make an improvement for 33 to 38 micron.

“A shift in the dial for that wool would make a big difference.”

He was excited at the prospects of using the fibre in clothers, which could significantly increase prices.

All going well newly developed and branded products could be released at major fairs in December and be backed by a marketing campaign.

West Otago farmer Lloyd Brenssell hosted Henze on his 10,500ha property and said sheep farmers have been looking for something to happen with wool and he hopes this could be that boost.

Three years ago wool from his Fernvale property at Moa Flat averaged $6 a kilogram. This year it was worth less than half that.

Brenssell said people are ignorant of wool and its qualities, especially warmth, something he saw first-hand with visitors to his farm relying on synthetic fabrics to keep warm.

DuPont Industrial Biosciences has 2500 scientists and links to international distribution and retailers. 

The suite of new products it has developed is as diverse as Kevlar, Teflon and Lycra.

Meanwhile, Agriculture Minister Damian O’Connor has announced plans to convene a crossbred wool industry summit for later in the year to look at issues with the fibre.

O’Connor said he sees huge potential for natural fibres but farmers and industry must work together to develop a strategic plan then implement it.

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